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An African Out in the World Or When I was a Tennis
Player
By Betty Wamalwa
Muragori
I was standing
on a tennis court playing in the finals of my first
tournament in Britain. It was a time of many firsts
for me. It was the first time I had left the
boarders of my country and the first time I had
flown on a plane. Ok it was the finals of the plate
event, for those of you who may not know what this
means, the plate is for those who loose in the first
round of a tennis tournament. And yes that means I
had lost in the first round but I have some
mitigating circumstances as my excuse so hear me
out.
The trip had
started with a great deal of excitement. It had
become the tradition in our school for the top
tennis players to make their grand British tour,
playing tournaments to test their ability and their
dreams. Were we as great as we thought we were?
Could we actually compete with the best in the
world? Did we really want to become career tennis
players? These were the questions we went to test.
Playing in Nairobi, it was easy to believe our own
hype and we were encouraged to think that we could
compete with the best in the world. It wasn’t rare
for many of us to make claims that we could beat
Billie Jean King, Martina Navratilova and Chris
Evert-Lloyd if we were only given a chance, when
interviewed by the media.
It took just my
first tournament to accept the gap between me and
the rest of the world. It was a large lake.
Getting to
Britain
But before I
continue with the events on the court let me tell
you about the eventful journey that took me to that
court. My parents walked me to the door of the
plane. Remember when people did this? Flying in an
airplane was still a big deal, a marvel to be
discussed for many moons by those left behind. And
for us back then going abroad still meant going to
Britain our former colonial ruler. The clinical
cold efficiency of today’s airports with their
fixation on security was an unimagined nightmare
still a long way away.
In Nairobi we
still had the old airport that had been built in
homage to a village where everyone knew one
another. It was built to honour relationships and
public displays of love. The actual buildings
looked more like a series of barns that housed
cattle. Departure and arrival scenes were multihued
affairs. They featured a range of villages from
different parts of the country, all assembled at the
same time, in this one place, to see off their
relatives and friends and to welcome returning ones.
I recall a riot of colourful dress, a range of
facial features, different ages from new born babes
to old grandparents, many languages all spoken in
high excitement.
One person
would on average have 20 people seeing them off or
welcoming them. You could always tell who the
traveler was because of their shiny new clothes.
That was another thing about air travel in those
days, people got dressed to fly. I was dressed in
brand new clothes too. Bell bottom trousers that
swept the floor and platform shoes that made me 5ft
8in. adding four inches to the height recorded in
the passport. This height differential was going
to be questioned later on in this eventful journey.
The departure
and arrival routine seemed to have been agreed.
Much singing, a few speeches and the mandatory
lengthy prayer said by a woman who always looked
like she came from an unchanged place in time. I
imagined her at home in 1862 just as she was that
day in 1976, just dressed differently. The
matriarch of the clan, large and buxom or thin and
angular, it was she who carried the wisdom of the
ages in her lined face. She always looked to me as
though she had a special direct line to God and that
her prayers were promptly answered.
Lost in a
Foreign Land
I was traveling
with one other girl who was part of the tennis
team. The rest of the team was to come later as
they were still doing their end term exams and would
travel a week later. I got onto the plane and the
enormity of the journey I had undertaken struck me
silent. My friend and I were separated and I was
left alone with my terror of being found out. You
must understand that I was a teenager, seventeen
years old and in the grip of the need to know
“things”, or to look like I knew “things”. What
those things were was immaterial, I just had a
desperate need to look like I knew. So my terror on
that flight revolved around the thought that soon
everyone would know I had never flown in a plane and
my demeanor of cool would be exposed as fraudulent.
My friend had flown before so she knew her way
around airplanes, and we had agreed that she would
cover up my ignorance. So I was aghast and almost
wept when I realized we would not be sitting
together. I withdrew into a fear so intense it
shrunk me into a small point inside my head. The
seat seemed to grow in direct dis-proportion leaving
me feeling as though I was stuck in a bucket. My
first moment of humiliation was being helped with my
seat belt by my neighbour a man of oriental
extraction. After that I was too scared to even go
to the bathroom. But real travails were about to
start, making these ones I had made up look, made
up!
We arrived in
France only to find that there was need for a
transit visa to go from one airport to another and I
did not have one. Once again my friend was ahead of
the game, as she had her visa. She left and I was
now stranded in a foreign land which spoke a
language I did not know. I could not find out how
and where I could get a transit visa because
everyone I approached declared with some haughtiness
in English that they could not speak English. After
about two hours of wandering around the airport and
getting no help, I stood in one place in the airport
and openly started to cry. I was scared and I was
through with the cover-up. The tears prompted a
woman to come to my aid.
At last I was
sitting on the flight on my way to Britain. I had
made it out of France.
I arrived at
Heathrow airport and stood on the queue in a state
of simmering panic. Half an hour before we were due
to land, I had realized I did not have my passport.
My turn on the queue came. The immigration officer
looked at me and asked for my passport, and I burst
out crying. I told him I didn’t have it and regaled
him with the story of my French adventures and how I
had left my passport at an airport in France, either
Charles de Gaulle or Orly. It turned out that he
was formerly from Kenya and was fatherly and sweet.
He let me into Britain on some temporary papers.
Later on my passport was found and delivered to me
in Britain so that I had it by the time I was ready
to leave. I made sure that I only told my parents
this part of my adventures when I was safely home
and even then they freaked out and I had to calm
them by reminding them that it had all ended well as
I was clearly safe and sound. This particular
episode of my first trip abroad is truly astounding
in a world that has become so paranoid. I often
wonder if I would be languishing somewhere in an
unknown detention centre if I lost my passport
today.
A Detour
into an African Hairstyle
So back to the
court. I was playing a tall girl from New Zealand.
She was traveling with her mother who watched her
every match. Early in my tennis career I had
forbidden my parents from watching me play. The
reasons are lost in time but the regret still
lingers. My parents watched me playing tennis but
three or four times. As a child I wanted my
sporting life to be my world apart from my family.
I regretted this decision from time to time when I
had lost a match and started looking for my Dad to
cry into his arms. Instead I had to be stoic and
take my defeats as graciously as I took my
victories.
The match with
the New Zealand girl was tight. We were a set even
and it was two all in the third set, when that girl
whose name I have forgotten walked off the court to
talk to her mother. The score in that game was
fifteen all and I was serving. I looked at her with
some surprise as she took her time talking to her
mother.
But it really
wasn’t her fault. I know she had me pictured as a
cute, sweet, little African girl who would never
stand up to anything. Actually I had purposefully
created that impression by how I looked. I wore my
hair in a hairstyle that was instrumental in
creating that impression. In those days we took
advantage of the limitless styling options that is
African hair. Mass chemical hair straightening was
at least a decade away and our reference point was
still the hair styling inventions of the continent.
As I write this I realize how difficult it is to
describe some African hairstyles. Ok let me give it
a go. In the style I was wearing the hair was
parted into platted sections and then black raffia
fiber (what is raffia? sorry you need to see it to
understand it) was wrapped on each plat together
with extensions wrought from thick black string.
The result was many spiky, stiff, long antennae all
over the head. These were then curled into either
tight or loose corkscrews and shaped into a myriad
of styles. If you can’t picture the hairstyle too
bad, it’s a black thing.
So I looked
like a cross between a space being and a cute
poodle. It could all backfire though and you could
end up being treated like a poodle. Susan, my long
term tennis partner who was playing in junior
Wimbledon that year, got fed up at the success of
her hair style in getting attention from everybody.
She didn’t mind that the likes of Arthur Ashe paid
her attention, but the problem was that many others
treated her like the latest adorable puppy. She
pulled her hairstyle out of her hair. Then she
complained because she was then ignored for being
ordinary.
Discovering
the Steel in Me
The nameless
girl from New Zealand and her mother had oohed and
ahhed over my hair before the start of the match.
And I had smiled sweetly through it all. Looking
harmless was a finely honed strategy that we African
tennis playing girls had effected back home when we
found ourselves playing a game in which Africans
were disproportionately
un-represented. In the beginning we benefited from
people’s meager expectations of our abilities. At
home we were long busted, but here in foreign lands
other people’s myths about us played right into our
hands. In many cases you could win at least three
games before your opponent twigged.
I watched the
girl from New Zealand talk to her mother as I waited
to serve. It was fifteen all, remember? She took
her time and they might have even laughed a little.
And then I spoke, I said,
“If you don’t
get back onto the court right now, I will serve.”
She turned and
looked at me briefly and went back to her
conversation with her mother. She, was calling my
bluff. And I, was becoming more and more resolute
and controlled by the moment. With no further
warning, I served. Fuelled by my quiet resolve, the
first serve was perfect, hard and angling sharply to
the right. The ball went in, bouncing onto the back
of the fence with no one to return it.
“30/15” I
called out.
The girl
screamed, and must have said something like.
“What are you
doing?” in a state of distress.
I was cold,
efficient and purposeful now. I did not reply.
Instead I walked to the other side of the court and
served perfectly again to an empty court.
“40/15” I
replied.
The girl from
New Zealand ran onto the court. She knew she had no
redress because she was not supposed to go off and
interrupt play in the middle of a game. She was
engaged in audacious gamesmanship and I was going to
make her pay.
She was almost
crying when she got onto the court and into
position. Needless to say she was now a basket case
and no match for my growing confidence and my
determination. In my years of playing tennis this
match stands out for me. It was then that I found
out that I am in fact made of steel.
Winning from
Perspective
The next day we
started playing in the next tournament in a new
town. I don’t remember the name of the town except
that it had a poetic name. In this tournament I
managed to do much better, I lost in the fourth
round. Before I was knocked out I played a match of
epic proportions. My opponent was a waif like girl
with long blondish brown hair. She was thin and I
took one look at her and dismissed her straight
away, I knew I was getting to the next round. What
did I look like you might ask, identical, waif like,
thin, with corkscrews for a hairstyle. But I knew I
was strong.
I was used to
winning and had been rather traumatized by loosing
in the first round in my first tournament. I won
the first set easily enough. The waif like girl won
the next set and I put it down to bad luck. We were
playing on grass and there really was a lot of
chance involved. You were lucky to receive a true
bounce. The uneven nature of the grass meant that
you never knew where the ball was going to bounce or
how it was going to bounce. And even when the
bounce was true it was low and fast. Soon after the
match started I realized that being careful was
going to get me nowhere and that I might as well
play full out. And that is what I did.
The waif
girl and I were hitting and playing magical tennis
and because I was labouring under the perspective
that she was no good I never recognized the
magnificence of her strokes. Every time she
returned a particularly excellent ball that I had
expected to be a winner I thought “Fluke!” I would
then proceed to tighten the angle of the next ball
or hit that serve harder or the volley deeper. We
were both soon playing amazing tennis and a crowd
gathered to watch us. I won the third and final set
and my coach and the rest of the team ran onto the
court celebrating loudly. I looked at them in shock
as they informed me that I had just beaten one of
the best junior players on that circuit, and the
girl who was the runner up in the Queens tournament,
the previous one in which I had won in the plate.
Not Sharing
Bath Water
1976 was a hot
summer in Britain. In fact they were calling it the
hottest summer for many decades and warning of a
looming drought, something I was very familiar
with. The British had instituted a range of
measures to deal with the threatening water
shortage. There was to be no watering of lawns or
gardens, no washing of cars and no general misuse of
water. One of the more curious things was that
people were being asked to share bath water. My
team was made of two African girls, two girls of
Asian extraction, two girls of European origin and
an English coach. All except the coach were
Kenyan. To make the trip affordable we were housed
by volunteer British families free of charge. Our
team decided to do its bit towards the water saving
effort by sharing our bath water.
This well meaning
gesture soon opened the race lines wide. None of
the other girls of extraction other than African
would use the bath water after an African girl had
bathed first. My African compatriot and I were
aghast at this new racial frontier that we had never
encountered. We did not know what to say to these
girls who were our friends. A gap of silence soon
festered. To get our revenge we plotted between the
two of us to always take baths first. And then made
concerned remarks about the need to conserve water
when we heard the others letting out our bath water,
knowing that they were too embarrassed to respond to
our wicked teasing.
That trip to
Britain was one of my most memorable experiences. I
had many more adventures which I will keep for
another day. But this I am sure of, I set out a shy
unexposed African child and came back home a
confident young woman who knew what she was about
and could negotiate her way in the world with ease.
At the airport on my departure from Britain, a
different customs officer queried my unstamped
passport and my height. I was still wearing my
platform shoes. I was unfazed, I explained the
passport saga without drama and then I lifted the
trousers and showed him the heels that gave me my
height, and we both had a good laugh.
posted 18 July 2007 * * * *
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posted 7 November 2007 |